A Slow Summer Sojourn in the Nilgiris.
Two weeks of reading, writing, and living in heritage homes in the Nilgiris, with fluffy clouds and rain tapping gently at my windowpanes.
At the start of May, as the summer heat began to press down on Mumbai, my partner and I decided to embark upon a slow vacation to a place where the weather would be gentle. For him, it was a true vacation; for me, a dreamy workation, particularly because I wanted some quiet to ‘write’. We both were longing to trade the sweltering city for something softer - cooler air, quieter days, and landscapes that let us breathe. So we set off on a two-week journey through the lush heart of Kerala and the misty hills of Tamil Nadu. Here’s how it unfolded:
I’m a slow traveller at heart. I’ve always been drawn to homestays and cosy spaces that tell stories - older the better. Spaces that feel lived-in, loved, and layered with time. This time, though, I was also working, and I knew that the trip had to be a gentle balance: a workation wrapped in comfort. The places we chose had to be just right - tucked away from the city’s chaos with high-speed wifi and windows that opened to birdsong instead of honking horns.
And we found our perfect vacation.
The weather was kind, the stays were warm and inviting, and my days found a beautiful rhythm. I wrote endlessly, with birds for company outside my window. We wandered down winding roads lined with green, took long walks with no destination, savoured delicious local meals, and let ourselves get lost; without an itinerary, and without a rush.
And thanks to the perfect window seat in the lap of Mother Nature, I finally kick-started my blog.
Looking back, I can hardly believe what we trade away in city life. The skies here were so clear, they made my skin glow. The food was fresh and kind to my body. And the people? They were warm, welcoming, generous, and full of heart. I didn’t do much. On most days, I would work, read, wander around in the neighbourhood, play badminton with my partner, chat up with the locals, and just have coffee, as the clouds wafted past my windows. But I did do a few things that perfectly highlighted my trip. Here’s a montage of my days in the hills.
TIP: If you're planning a road trip across Tamil Nadu and Kerala (a rule I swear by for all my road trips), start your journey by 7 AM. This way, you can avoid the traffic and enjoy beautiful views. And if you are on a workation like me, you will most probably reach your destination before your work calls begin. :)
MUST CARRY: Sunscreen, an umbrella, walking shoes, and a sweater/ shawl.
DESTINATION 1: MUNNAR, KERALA
OUR STAY: The High Range Club, a planters’ club (members only) that has been in existence in Munnar since 1908, has a gorgeous golf course with the Kannan Devan Hills on one side and the Munnar river on the other forming one of its boundaries.
MUST VISIT: The Lockhart Tea Estate, established in 1879, is one of Munnar’s oldest surviving plantations. The on-site guided tour takes visitors on an immersive journey of the tea-making process. The wooden flooring and machinery quietly tell the centuries-old stories of the colonial past, migrant roots, and resilient labour.
SHOP: I preferred the Lockhart Tea Estate to the Tata Tea (or the KDHP) Museum because the route to the estate was spectacular, plus it was a centuries-old factory. But the Tata Tea Factory has a Museum and is the more popular one. If you visit the latter, do buy their iced tea because it was YUMMY!
TIPS: 1) We visited Munnar in the first week of May, but it was quite cool and chilly. So, be sure to carry some warm clothing and an umbrella with you. 2) Walking around a city is the best way to explore it. Carry good walking shoes. 3) If you do visit a museum or a tea estate, ask your rickshaw driver to wait for you, as it may be difficult to get transportation back. This is not news, as Munnar is a small town. 4) Most of these places have courier services. So if you do buy something, request them to courier it. This way, you won’t have excess luggage.
DESTINATION 2: KODAIKANAL, TAMIL NADU
OUR STAY: The Kodaikanal Club (members only) is an institution that is 134 years old. It is one of the most stunning, quiet, peaceful, and well-preserved pieces of our colonial history. It also has a great gym and a library of dreams.
MUST EAT:
The Pastry Corner: Tucked beside the bustling 7 Roads junction, it’s a place you could easily walk past if not for the sweet, buttery aroma wafting out. But behind this quaint, unassuming shop lies a story far richer than its coffee. It was started by a woman years ago, when baking was still a novelty in the hills. Word spread, not just about her pastries, but about the warmth of the place. I had the luck of bumping into the owner herself during my visit. A kind face, busy but smiling, weaving in and out of the kitchen. I didn’t know who she was at the time. I wish I had. Only later did I learn the story, and I regretted not stopping to say more than a polite hello.
Junior Kuppanna. Now this is a place with swagger. It sits comfortably in its own history: born in 1960, from the heart of Erode, with recipes passed down through Tamil kitchens like family heirlooms. The thali I had there wasn’t just food; it was a festival.
TIPS: Throughout our stay, it rained torrentially during the day. I loved it because it created a nice backdrop for my daydreams. Carry an umbrella and definitely a sweater.
DESTINATION 3: CONOOR, TAMIL NADU
This was my second visit to Conoor, and I am definitely going back because it is one of the most beautiful, quaint towns. The trick is not to stay in the heart of the town, because you will most likely not find peace, but rather in a cottage tucked away, yet within walking distance of the town center.
OUR STAY: Neemrana's Wallwood Garden is a 19th-century Scottish-style Heritage property with amazing staff. They had complimentary high-tea every day at 4 pm. And sipping on local tea while chomping on Varkaa and listening to birds chirping is a core memory I’ll carry with me for life.
MUST EAT:
Varkey: As I write this, my mouth is salivating because varkey, a layered, slightly sweet, and flaky biscuit, is a regional specialty that is spectacular. You will want to carry a couple of packets home.
MUST BUY:
Toda Shawls: I am obsessed with buying locally handcrafted products, and if they are GI tagged, it just increases the lure. The GI-tagged Toda Shawl is a traditional handwoven garment crafted by the indigenous Toda community of the Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu. Known for its distinctive black and red embroidery on a white background, the shawl features intricate geometric patterns that are deeply symbolic and passed down through generations. Each piece is a testament to the Toda people's rich cultural heritage, blending artistry with identity. I got mine from the manager of our hotel who knew women artisans from the community.
MUST DO:
Tea Tasting at Tranquitea: Please book your slot in advance, as this is a truly spectacular experience. Tranquilitea's commitment to preserving the heritage of the Nilgiris, promoting sustainable tea cultivation, and offering authentic cultural experiences makes it a must-do for travelers seeking tranquility and a deep connection with the region's rich legacy. Tranquilitea is a family-owned tea estate and boutique hospitality venture nestled in the serene hills of Coonoor, Tamil Nadu. The Subramani family, belonging to the indigenous Badaga community, has been at the forefront of the Nilgiri tea industry for four generations. They pioneered the first modern 'Crush, Tear & Curl' (CTC) factory in the region and initiated the small tea growers movement, which now accounts for the majority of tea production in the Nilgiris. Visitors can partake in curated experiences such as guided plantation walks, birdwatching, and gourmet tea tastings led by Sandeep Subramani, a fourth-generation tea planter and hospitality professional. These tastings provide insights into the art of tea-making - from cultivation to cup.
Lunching at La Belle Vie @ 180Mciver: Enjoy a charming alfresco lunch at La Belle Vie, nestled in the heritage bungalow 180Mciver. And, if you are a Hindi Film fan, this is where Kapoor & Sons was shot. P.S. You can also stay here. I didn’t, but third time’s the charm.
A visit to the Wellington Club (you have to be a member to enter, though): The Wellington Gymkhana Club in Coonoor boasts a lush 18-hole golf course that sprawls across 69 acres of verdant terrain in the Nilgiri Hills . Situated at an elevation of approximately 6,000 feet, the course offers a serene setting surrounded by tea estates and Shola forests . Established in 1873 as a garrison club, it has evolved into a premier destination for golf enthusiasts, blending colonial-era charm with modern amenities. Entry is members-only, but if you know someone, it’s worth stepping inside for the history and ambiance.
Just walk around a lot because Conoor is a slice of heaven: Wander through misty paths, tea estates, and quiet lanes. Every corner offers breathtaking views and the kind of peace that only hill stations can promise.
Conoor to Ooty in a Toy Train: The Nilgiri Mountain Railway (NMR), affectionately known as the "Toy Train," is a historic railway line in Tamil Nadu, India. Constructed by the British in 1908, it connects Mettupalayam to Udhagamandalam (Ooty) over a distance of 46 kilometers. This railway is renowned for its unique rack and pinion system, the only one of its kind in India, which enables the train to navigate steep gradients through the picturesque Nilgiri Hills. In recognition of its cultural and historical significance, the NMR was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in July 2005, as an extension to the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway.
Tip: If you don’t want to stay in Ooty, you can go there by the Toy Train and come back by road. The road trip is only an hour. You can also do the same from Ooty to Coonoor. I did that during my last visit. Just remember to book your tickets in advance. Also, it’s really small. So try not to carry heavy luggage.
The Conoor to Ooty Toy Train
DESTINATION 4: OOTY, TAMIL NADU
OUR STAY: We stayed at the stunning Taj Savoy in Ooty. It is a 193-year-old heritage hotel that has been welcoming guests since 1841, making it one of the oldest continuously operating hotels in the region. The hotel's architecture and interiors reflect its colonial past, featuring vintage teakwood beams in rooms 101 to 103 that were transported from Tipu Sultan’s palace in Srirangapatna. Over the years, the Savoy has hosted several notable guests, including King Edward VII during his visit in 1875, and Mohammed Ali Jinnah, who stayed there with his wife Ruttie Petit in 1920. Set amidst six acres of lush gardens, the hotel offers a blend of historical charm and modern amenities, with bonfires at night.
WHERE TO SHOP:
Bharat Silk Society Art & Craft Emporium: I love buying local, handmade saris from the places I visit. This store was exactly that. I bought 3 spectacular saris: in pure banana silk with pity darbar design, a maharani silk and a bamboo Kanjeevaram with pure zari. If you hold these saris in your hand, you’ll know why they cost what they cost (and why Myntra and Amazon saris are just not it.)
Tip: Take advantage of their courier services.
DESTINATION 5: COIMBATORE, TAMIL NADU
All I can say about Coimbatore is it’s a clean, beautiful city, with brilliant food and great people. I’ve been there before, so this time I only ate (thalis) and visited…wait for it…a local mela.
OUR STAY: The beautiful and green Coimbatore Club, where we were welcomed by 4 peacocks.
WHERE TO EAT & WHAT:
Hari Bhavanam, is a paradise for non-veg lovers, known for its Chettinad-style delicacies and spicy, soul-satisfying meals. A must-try here is the Paneer Goli Soda - a quirky, fizzy local drink that pairs perfectly with their yummy thalis.
P.S. Paneer in Tamil means ‘rose’ unlike hindi in which it means ‘cottage cheese’. So when my friend suggested I try the ‘paneer goli soda’, imagine my disbelief at the existence of ‘carbonated cottage cheese’.
Annapoorna in Coimbatore is an iconic vegetarian restaurant chain, beloved for its consistent quality, classic South Indian fare, and signature filter coffee.
WHERE TO SHOP:
Pothys: I bought a Kovai Cotton Sari and a Kora Silk Cotton Sari from Pothys, a renowned South Indian textile showroom known for its rich heritage in traditional and contemporary sarees. Kovai is the local term for Coimbatore, a city famous for its textile industry, making it the natural home and hub for these beloved sarees.
COIMBATORE TO MUMBAI
I remember summer vacations as a kid - long, lazy days filled with joy and lots of food. Somewhere along the way, with a corporate job and the perils of adulting, I forgot to take them. But exploring the Nilgiris brought it all back. In the quiet, serene coolness of the hills, watching life unfold gently in small-town India, eating fresh, simple food, and staying in homes with centuries-old walls, something shifted. I realized how much we’ve let speed and capitalism define us. I realised how much we need to slow down, breathe, and break free from itineraries. And remember that joy isn’t a luxury; it’s essential.
All in all, this picture summarises my Summer Vacation, 2025.
